A brief extract from Janice Winship's excellent book. It is available from the Grove Library
They are ridiculed, scolded or humiliatingly ignored. Thus the 'woman's world' which women's magazines represent is created precisely because it does not exist outside their pages. In their isolation on the margins of the men's world, in their uneasiness about their feminine accomplishments, women need support - desperately. As Jane Reed, long-time editor of Woman's Own and then editor in chief of Woman, put it, 'a magazine is like a club.
Its first function is to provide readers with a comfortable sense of community and pride in their, identity (Hughes-Hallett 1982, p. 21).
Yet such is the power of masculine wisdom that women's magazines and their millions of readers are perenially belittled by many women no less than by most men. As TV soap opera is to news and current affairs, so women's magazines are the soaps of journalism, sadly maligned and grossly misunderstood.
Over the years critics have disparagingly opined that women's magazines are: 'a journalism for squaws ... you find yourself in a cosy twilit world' (1965); it is a world of 'the happy ever after trail' (1976); 'cooking and sewing - the woman's world' (1977); 'kitchen think' (1982). They lament that women's magazines do not present a true and real picture of women's lives: 'Why ... does the image deny the world?' (1965). Worse, magazines are 'completely schizophrenic' (1958); 'experience and make-believe merge in a manner conducive to the reader's utter bewilderment'
But if the focus of women's magazines is predominantly home and hearth, if the world they present is a happy-ever-after one, if they do refuse the reality of most women's lives, if they do offer a schizophrenic mix - and none of these characteristics is quite accurate - then there are pertinent cultural reasons why this is so. I want in this book to delve beneath this simple and dismissive description in order both to explain the appeal of the magazine's generic formula and to critically consider its limitations and potential for change. to turn over the page.
If the profile of women's magazines is partly determined by the state of play between women and men, it is also (as indeed is the 'game' between women and men) shaped by a consumer culture geared to selling and making a profit from commodities, and whose sales are boosted (it's firmly believed) through the medium of advertising. As commodities, women's magazines sell their weekly or monthly wares not only by advertising proper but also by the 'advertisement' of their own covers.
On any magazine stand each women's magazine attempts to differentiate itself from others also vying for attention. Each does so by a variety of means: the title and its print type, size and texture of paper, design and lay-out of image and sell-lines (the term the magazine trade aptly uses for the cover captions), and the style of model image - but without paying much attention to how a regular reader will quickly be able to pick out her favourite from others nestling competitively by it. Cover images and sell lines, however, also reveal a wealth of knowledge about the cultural place of women's magazines.
The woman's face, which is their hallmark, is usually white, usually young, usually smoothly attractive and immaculately groomed, and usually smiling or seductive. The various magazines inflect the image to convey their respective styles - domestic or girl-about-town, cheeky or staid,"upmarket" or "downmarket" ~ by subtle changes of hairstyle, neckline and facial pose. They waver from it occasionally rather than regularly with royals and male celebrities, mothers-and-babies and couples. Only magazines on the fringes of women's magazines, like Ideal Home (concentratedly home-oriented and with a high male readership) never use the female model. It is no profundity to say that as the sign of 'woman' this cover image affirms and sells those qualities of white skin, youth, beauty, charm and sexuality as valuable attributes of femininity. In marked contrast Spare Rib covers break sharply with the stereotyped plasticity of the model face, and communicate immediately how far that magazine distances itself from such an evaluation of femininity.
There is one other important and defining characteristic of this cover image: the woman's gaze. It intimately holds the attention of 'you', the reader and viewer. Such an image and gaze also has a wide currency in ads directed at women and men, has a daily venue on page 3 of the Sun and Star, and appears on the cover of 'girlie' magazines like Mayfair Loaded and Fiesta. The woman's image in these latter is obviously caught up in a provocatively sexual significance. Her partially revealed body speaks the sexuality about which the facial expression often equivocates. Her gaze holds that of the male voyeur; but it is he who has the controlling look: to look or not to bother, to choose to be sexually aroused or not.
She is the object and toy for his sexual play. It would be pushing it to suggest that the covers of women's magazines work in quite this way. For one thing many completely play down the 'come-on' look, for another the covers are primarily addressed to women. Nevertheless, what I would argue is that the gaze between cover model and women readers marks the complicity between women that we see ourselves in the image which a masculine culture has defined.
It indicates symbolically, too, the extent to which we relate to-each other as women through absent men: it is 'the man' who, in a manner of speaking, occupies the space between model image and woman reader.
In fact few women readers will make an immediate identification with these cover images: they are too polished and perfect, so unlike us. Paradoxically, though, we do respond to them. Selling us an image to aspire to, they persuade us that we, like the model, can succeed. For the image is a carefully constructed one, albeit that it sometimes apes a 'natural look'. The model is only the cipher, the (often) anonymous face for others' skills and a range of commodities to fill. As Company puts it: 'Cover photograph of Joanne Russell by Tony McGee. Vest dress' by Sheridan Barnett; necklace by Pellini. Hair by Harry Cole at Trevor Sorbie. Makeup by Philippe at Sessions' (April 1983).
Easy then, 'you' too can create the look - given the ready cash. Company continues, 'Our cover girl look can be achieved by using Charles of the Ritz signature Collection for spring: complexion, Amboise Ritz Mat Hydro-Protective Make-up; cheeks, Cinnamon Glow Revenescence Cheekglow; eyes, Country Plums Perfect Finish Powder, Eyecolour Trio, Black Ritz Eye Pencil, Black Perfect Lash