An examination of 'Black beauty & Hair', an English- based beauty magazine, in terms of Genre, Ideology, Audience, change over time and principally Representation.
Issues: June/July to Oct/Nov 2000
Genre
“Black beauty and hair”, describes itself as a magazine 'for the beauty conscious black woman.' It's a British based magazine and published monthly. It fits into the genre of a health/beauty or lifestyle magazine.
Genres make promises, offer expectations and try to offer similarity and difference at the same time.
Its basic generic formula is that of what readers expect from a woman's hair and beauty “glossy”. It has self-titled, breakdown, categories of 'hair', 'looks', 'exclusives' and 'regulars' which follow the usual codes and conventions of a woman's beauty magazine. The difference is that it is aimed at a black reader.
This formula of 'recognisable ingredients' makes its appeal to the audience the magazine wants to attract. And in turn the audience who is interested in this particular genre, will choose this magazine and the products it wishes to sell.
'Black beauty' and hair defines its genre by its generic signifiers. Generic signifiers being repeated signs, icons and messages that reinforce the magazines ideologies and which in turn may get the reader to believe in and relate to the magazine/ product.
The primary signifier is the magazines front cover. It uses a 'close up' head shot of a black model. She is always 'looking' out of the magazine (over her shoulder) at the reader with a sultry, yet warming gaze. The reader definitely makes 'eye contact', it's almost like a “mirror, mirror on the wall” enticer, (or mirror, mirror on the shelf), suggesting that if the prospective reader looks anything like the model or wishes to look like this then the only thing to do is BUY.
The model is always aged between 18 - 30 (which by usual women's magazine standards is a pretty broad age range). She always made up, the issue's 'exclusive' determines whether she's made 'up' or 'down'.
The model's hair is also always distinctive, colour is always bold and style is done to perfection. Cleverly, the hair colour of the model determines colouring of the whole picture. For example if the hair is Amber in colour so is some of the text and is usually accompanied by text of a complimentary colour for example black, with maybe snippets of white. The two-tone text is visually very striking, yet flattering.
The secondary signifiers are the features and typeface with promises of 'More hair' and 'More style' being the regular. Beauty tips, hair tips, celebrity news, horoscope guides or body maintenance are also familiar features designed to invite the reader to take a closer peek if interested. They're always listed down the left at the side of the models face and under like a kind of border. One tone of text being the bold 'pun' and the other tone being a brief explanation designed to be easily read in the newsagents.
All of the features in the magazine appear in the same order month by month, allowing the regular reader 'ease of use' enabling them to skip to their favourite parts always knowing where they'll be.
There are no fictional articles or stories in this magazine but it does have reviews and interviews of 'pop culture' films and celebrities. There is however a regular report called P.S. from the fashion editor at the back. She comments on her 'sagas' through the month often poking fun at herself, as if it were a comedy piece. She also usually takes a photo of herself and turns it into a caricature, rather like the comic pieces in a newspaper
The magazine follows the 'Western' culture of fashions, hairstyles and clothes but also heavily incorporates ethnic influences especially in the hair. You're likely to see styles you'd never see in a European hair magazine.
Apart from the celebrities, the models used inside the magazine are not all of 'supermodel' status- some are just your regular 'plain Jane' done up, again aged 18-30+. This is an extremely important signifier; this helps not to intimidate the reader and makes the goals of beauty more possible to the average audience. It also has a two-page section dedicated to male hairstyles, maybe in the hopes that the reader will show her man the latest styles.
The magazine is 'well-spoken' and quite eloquent, but speaks to its audience in a 'friend to friend/ sister to sister' manner. The editor even signs off from her piece on a first names basis, indicating that, yes; the audience/reader is a 'friend'. The discourse
doesn't appear 'cheesy' though, the themes of female solidarity, unity and yet independence run throughout.
These repeated codes and conventions of the magazine indicate that this magazine will appeal to, or is published for the reading of black women aged 18-30+. At approximately 140 pages thick and priced at £2.20 its clear that the magazine is not targeted at a young audience, more at women who maybe earn their own money and can afford such luxuries. “Glossies”, like this who aspire to attract a certain 'type', or 'class' of reader also charge at high prices. Maybe the fact that there are very few competitors, only one to name, (which is an American based publication that only caters for the American reader), suggests there are no 'price wars'and allows the publisher to charge what they want as the audience has not much else to choose from.
There are very occasionally 'freebies' on the front page, sometimes a lip liner or lipstick, not of any great desire. This is a mass-market magazine targeted at a niche audience, simply because black people in this country are the minority, and therefore maybe the publishers think that sales are sufficient without the need of 'bribes'. The 'give - aways' usually appear towards the back of the magazine. They are always of good standard, for example various hair and skin lotions and potions, but they are in a limited supply you have to send away for them, making it cheaper for the publishers as not everyone can be bothered and stock may run out.
The last 17 pages and 30+ within the main body of the magazine are completely devoted to advertisements, covering hair and beauty salons specialising in Afro hair
and beauty, hairdressing equipment and wholesalers, beauty clinics (note none for cosmetic surgery) and more recently psychics.
Besides money from sales, it's the advertisements that help fund the publication its not surprising that the adverts would be in abundance. But maybe that's not the only reason, in comparison to European hairdressers and products Afro hairdressers and products are the minority. It is perfectly valid that the adverts shown in the magazine could be all and the only hairdressers/products available in the U.K for this market so the publishers decided to cater for all black women in the U.K and cram them all in.
Representation
The representation of, black womanhood, is one of the central themes throughout 'Black Beauty & Hair', along with the themes of staying young and beautiful. Although the latter are themes common to the Western ideologies of beauty, the processes that a black woman goes through to achieve and maintain this beauty differ significantly to the processes that a woman of any other race under go. This means that the information the magazine offers must be specific, accurate and informative to maintain readership and increase sales. This specific information on the other hand ignores the voices of women and men of other ethnic backgrounds.
'Black Beauty & Hair' has it's own semiotics, it's own set of codes and conventions which, although misleading to the ordinary person, hold a high level of relevance to the reader. For example a relaxer is not a comfy recliner, rather a chemical cream to straighten hair. 'Weave', 'texturiser', 'cornrow' and 'china bumping' are all words that the reader will understand. The magazine as institution also holds different ideologies to that of a 'European beauty magazine, for example a black woman with blonde hair doesn't fit the stereotype of the 'blonde bimbo' and therefore cannot be constructed as such.
'Black Beauty & Hair' represents a world that (although covertly) suggests we judge people on appearance. The magazine constructs images and ideals of how it thinks a black woman of today should look and offers advice and guidance on how to obtain that look. 'Black Beauty & Hair' seems quite contradictory if one looks beneath the surface, on first glance the magazine seems to promote pride. Pride of race, pride of
Womanhood, pride of difference and diversity and pride of naturalness. Then in the same breath offer images of women who seem to be doing their hardest to fit into the European/ 'Westernised' mould of how a woman should look or what beautiful is, without even knowing it. Hair straighteners, skin lighteners, nail extensions. All of the things that give a woman fake beauty, all the things that the capitalist institutions tell us we need, (false needs), to look good, to 'fit in', then take all our money and laugh all the way to the bank. Because they know that if we've bought into the latest style, we'll buy into next months.
This duality of ideals broadens the magazines readership, catering for all tastes be it 'ethnic', 'natural' or 'Western'.
'Black Beauty & Hair' uses a mix of images, both with the traditional 6-foot, dress size 8 models and with women who are more the norm. Women who the reader's are more likely to look like, average women, ranging from a dress size 8 to a size 18. It would seem that 'Black Beauty & Hair' hold different ideologies of how they should construct body size and shape compared to most beauty magazines. Apparently size isn't that much of an issue, in fact the anorexic look is frowned upon. Culturally many black women (and men) prefer a more rounded shape, which is reflected in the magazine.
“The beauty conscious black woman” will be probably 18-45, as one can tell by the images of women used in the magazine. She will be heterosexual and will maybe have a boyfriend, the absence of lesbians (homosexual issues) and the advertisements aimed at men indicate this. She will work, she will be interested in the latest fashions and she may have children. The magazine is so neutral in the area of
career that neither the 'mother at home' or the 'pushy career woman' ideologies are promoted. In fact the only career that is promoted is hairstyling.
'Black Beauty & Hair' offers advice on all hair and beauty problems, where the reader writes in and the 'hairstylist' and 'holistic guru' (both black women) reply on page. The magazine doesn't offer much in the way of career advice there are occasionally advertisements to join the police force, the army, and to work with children for example (with black women in the picture), but nothing of any great substance. The only advice given in the way of relationships is the monthly horoscope. Lifestyle on the other hand is tackled covertly, the whole magazine is about a certain type of lifestyle, the consumer lifestyle, and buying into that, but it doesn't point it out quite so abruptly. The lifestyle according to 'Black Beauty' is to be well groomed at all times, to be interested in the celebrity of the month, to be interested in the latest fashions, basically to spend, spend, spend!
As the magazines main priority is to sell hair and beauty products, headshots are the main types of shot in the magazine always well posed and well lit, the products themselves so seducing and attractive.
The reality is even the 'natural' look is never really natural. There is always a process one must go through to achieve this 'natural' beauty offered by 'Black Beauty & Hair'. All the templates of beauty on offer are cultural, for example in the Asian community a girl who is 'fair skinned' is looked on more favourably (in terms of beauty) than a girl who is 'dark skinned'. This ideology is reflected in the West. There are many more 'lighter' skinned black female celebrities than there are dark skinned.
This suggests that the 'Western' media 'love' black women - as long as they aren't too black.
These templates of beauty on the other hand, sometimes become impossible to achieve in a biological sense. And attempting to achieve these templates of beauty - for black women can include physical damage to hair or body and may even lead to medical damage. This theory is supported by the two contrasting images of an advert of a hair straightening cream facing an advert of a hair repair cream. To repair the hair after it's been chemically ruined to fit the template.
Another problem with 'keeping up appearances' is that once a woman starts it is almost impossible to stop trying to maintain that 'perfect' look. This can almost become a second carer to some women (always putting in the hours) and occasionally can lead to the extremes of cosmetic surgery, all for the need to be accepted.
Although in the magazine's favour, 'Black Beauty & Hair' picks a vast range of images of black women and constructs many images of what 'it' considers to be beautiful. These images defy all of the usual stereotypes of black women being the fat; nappy headed maid, not remotely beautiful.
The people who produce this publication are mainly women, most who have worked on the magazine since it's birth. Most are probably middle aged with children - the type of woman that they aim the magazine at. This suggests that it is black women speaking on behalf of black women - quite a novel idea. Nevertheless the publisher is male and owned by a male, which suggests that ultimately a man has the power, as
usual. The writers do not really address social/racial issues in any great depth; their attitude seems to be glad of the recognition of black beauty, yet they neither seem to take on an overtly aggressive or 'victim'ish' manner. Being neutral and not rocking the boat too much is probably how the powers that be like it and how 'Black Beauty & Hair' stays in good terms.
Audience
The relationship between 'Black Beauty & Hair' and it's readers like any other media text/publication is implicitly based upon making the reader feel that the magazine is purposely constructed for them or people that they wish to identify with. 'Black Beauty & Hair' attempts to do this by claiming to be 'the magazine for beauty conscious black women'.
The issues covered by the magazine are very limited, concentrating more on style, fashion and beauty than other topics. Nevertheless these topics entice a small but accessible segment of the population into becoming active consumers of their product. In order to do this 'Black Beauty' magazine positions its audience within a smaller framework than most other 'glossies' or black culture magazines for that matter. The 1000's of hair styles and tips appeal to both young and older black female audiences, as do the beauty 'tips', the wholesalers and salon directory acts as a kind of 'yellow pages' for hairstylists and salons as well as the common reader. It's not uncommon to find copies of 'Black Beauty' in most black hair salons, they are offered to clients to read and to point out particular styles for themselves during their time at the salon. In doing this 'Black Beauty' magazine becomes a media publication that is consumed by different types of readers for many different reasons and in many different ways. Some readers, it is then fair to say, may only be interested in certain parts of the magazine for a specific purpose/ gratification.
The need for identification with other black women
The need for entertainment
The need for company
The need for adjustment and comparison of personal identification against black media role models and representations of 'blackness'
The desire to gain information about the latest styles, Celebs, fashions, beauty regimes.
Any of the above, or all may be the reason for the magazine being purchased e.g. The reader is interested in how to look after Afro hair and uses 'Black Beauty' in order to receive guidance on what treatments to buy. However, this reader may be white and has no interest in 'black' fashions, they're simply reading the magazine to learn how to look after their mixed race child's hair. They still become members of that particular audience sector. This is where 'Black Beauty' is successful in maintaining a niche audience base, because of the lack of competition for this specific type of publication the reader may not subscribe to one of the mini genres within it.
Product loyalty to 'Black Beauty is largely connected to the fact that the 'Western' society is consumed in the ideas of self-improvement - visually. The need to look one' best at all times and the need/ desire to follow fashions, which in turn reinforces our needs for identity and acceptance within our cultures. (All messages that 'Black Beauty covertly suggests).
The loyalty to these ideas extends to include texts and publications in other media forms i.e. 'The beauty conscious black woman' then becomes a 'Black Beauty' reader and not the other way round.
'Black Beauty' magazine is similar to all beauty/ style magazines in that it is a consumer mag. It is in the business of offering the styles and products, which accompany the ever-growing consumerist culture of “keeping up appearances”.
The magazine is based on the 'wanna-be' culture of fashions and styles, and covertly suggests if the reader has her hair done or buys a particular beauty product they'll enjoy their party more, the job interview will be successful- their life will be great. These messages are reinforced with the pictures of happy, content, successful, independent women. The magazine acts as a text 'fairy godmother' for a 'Cinderella' audience.
The magazine, whilst under the guise of targeting 'beauty conscious black women' provides it's advertisers with a crossover audience which is linked with mainstream style/fashion culture world-wide. This is because black fashion, style and music of black origin are the dominant youth cultures around the world. Whereas in the 60's it was 'fashionable' to be a hippie, these days it's seen as 'cool' or 'fashionable' to be black. Leading fashion names such as Revlon, L'Oreal, Cover girl, M.A.C, Calvin Klien, Tommy Hilfiger and Versace, to name but a few, have all jumped on the 'pimping' band-wagon and are using more black personalities to sell their products. 'Black Beauty' suggests “black female celebrities add just as much credibility to their products, as Liz Hurley does to Estee Lauder”. 'Black Beauty' wittingly suggest that
when it comes to fashions and hairstyles the designers are making 'fashionable of what was already common place in black cultures.
However, 'Black Beauty' doesn't give in to the mainstream and still exerts a certain responsibility/ obligation to promote a good mix of both mainstream but mainly 'black' fashion brands for it's specifically black audience.
It is apparent that the icons and images portrayed throughout the magazine are symbolic of black, successful, independent women. These are reinforced with anchoring titles such as “Leading Ladies”, and “High fliers”. The almost overwhelming amount of advertisements cater for 'Black Beauty's specific audience e.g. 'Palmers' use a white model for their products in all other magazines but here the model is black. The products on offer within the magazine aren't cheap but the prices are affordable for the 'Black Beauty' audience. The non- black advertisers within the magazine must feel comfortable that their products will stand a good chance of being bought. This suggests that they are recognising that there is a 'black' market (excuse the pun) out there and these consumers don't fit the usual stereotypes of black people. They have style, class and most of all money to spend!
It is apparent from a closer analysis of the magazine content, that 'Black Beauty' presents it's audience with a wide collection of contrasting ideas and features contradicting themes and values. As a result of this the magazine's main message and ultimate statement then becomes difficult to decipher and could make the audience, if the Frankfurt Model was applied, (collective and passive receptive), confused as to what ideology is on display. However emphasis should be placed on the individual
reader and their knowledge and understanding they possess before they actively read 'Black Beauty & Hair'. It would be virtually impossible to take on all offered styles and beauty regimes, due to their contrasting/contradictory nature. I.e. use skin lightners/ be natural, therefore it would be fair to assume the reader negotiates the text and extracts from it the gratifications they need, based on their own style, personality and beliefs.
Durational
The main, specific content of the magazine is subject to very little change. From close observation it appears that 'Black Beauty & Hair' (for the bulk of it's pages that are not advertisements), relies heavily upon external fashion influences e.g. Whatever is the style/ fashion of the moment is promoted - it moves with the times.
The basic formula from edition to edition remains ultimately the same. Due to the expansion in the consumerist, fashion led culture, the need for people to be forever 'fashionable', and the 'coming out' of many more black celebrity icons, the magazine seems to have little trouble drawing up on a diverse selection of innovative styles and fashions.
There exists a correlating relationship between the fashion 'fads' of the outside world and the magazine. 'Black Beauty & Hair' concentrates on the most recent styles to be seen both 'on the street', on the catwalks, and on celebs. 'Black Beauty & Hair' doesn't really show any loyalty to one type of celebrity - musician or actor, American or English but seems to get a varied mix of all. It appears that 'Black Beauty & Hair' doesn't really rely on the use of celebrities to sell the magazine, but uses them for it's 'tit-bits' of gossip and of course style ideas.
The price has gone up 20p in the last two years, however the number of pages has gone up at least 40 pages. This increase in content includes an ever-changing genre or theme of 'this month's' styles, an increase in the number of images used in the
magazine, more images of celebrities and a noticeable increase in the amount of adverts.
A discreet change seems to have occurred in the way the magazine presents itself. It appears to have taken on a more 'artsy' and quite 'classy' feel. The publication seems to be more professional and slightly more prestigious than it did for example in '98.
It is in the nature of this 'type'/genre of magazine not to change it's content radically, it's in the business of basically presenting the same thing month after month but it uses new and innovative ways to constantly re-present the same information.
The generic formula goes on unchanged whilst fashions come and go, and are represented as change but basically the same formula constructs this.
The absence of an obvious rival also hinders change. If there is no direct competition the magazine has nothing to compare itself to or compete with and therefore obviously 'price/ style wars' cannot take place. Constantly having to re-create itself isn't as essential to the magazine's survival it's more of a choice.
The magazine also is subject to a 'migrating audience'. 'Black Beauty & Hair's audience age from around 16 to 40, which means that there will always be fresh/new readers of the magazine. Readers may pass the magazine down to their sisters, daughters and friends, and the readership goes on.
As the magazine matures and the readership base grows, more money will be spent on the magazine and the quality will continue to improve, more for the benefit of 'beauty conscious black women', who continue to buy this magazine month after month.
Summary
Although 'Black Beauty & Hair' appears to be quite contradictory in it's messages of beauty; i.e. 'processed' Vs 'natural', 'Western' Vs 'ethnic'. The fact that there is a good mix of all images that are promoted suggests that the final decision is ultimately left upon the discretion of the reader, as an individual. And because, at the moment 'Black Beauty & Hair' has very little rivalry a strong readership fan-base is maintained.
'Black Beauty & Hair' seems to be nothing more than a kind of catalogue, where readers look at the products/ styles/ fashions on offer then they buy. Cultural, economic or political issues are rarely reported on or discussed and when they are it seems that the writers are 'holding back' as it were.
Although the magazine, as a publication seems naturally to be quite biased in it's attitudes towards black women/ black womanhood, it doesn't say anything profound or anything that may be seen to be too 'out of place/ in-politically correct'. One luxury that the American media seem to have - more freedom of speech.
The magazine content is full of cultural and social contradictions, it seems a shame that the publication doesn't exploit this opportunity, (with a ready- made, interactive audience), to be slightly more informative, slightly more bold and outspoken when it comes to reporting on political or social issues that affect black women of this country. (Or other countries where the 'Black Beauty & Hair' magazine is distributed).
But then again in the magazine's favour, it doesn't claim to be anything more than it is - a hairstyling magazine, the additional issues and reports are there as a 'bonus', they do not sell the magazine - the hairstyles do.
Surely the magazine's writers would love to expand/ broaden the magazine's social attitudes stance. But, it is unlikely that the publishers is 'black owned', and in- keeping with the English notion of being a 'fair sport', being 'politically correct' and not 'looking a gift horse in the mouth', it wouldn't do to voice too much of an opinion.
The fact is the 'profit is king' mentality is endemic of institutions that exist in the media world-wide. Extra pressure/ emphasis seems to be put on 'Black Beauty & Hair' to be political and slightly feminist in it's attitudes because it is the only publication specifically of it's kind made in England, that reaches a specific audience. For example, a 'European' magazine wouldn't be snubbed for not taking a political stance yet there is an immediate expectation/ need for this magazine to be quite feminist and liberal. Being a 'pioneer comes with responsibility.
The magazine reflects the ideologies most acceptable in the dominant capitalist culture that is the media. Real, 'gritty' issues - metaphorically speaking, are 'whispers at the back of class'. The magazine seems to lose some of it's integrity by not being bold or feminist enough but again these pressures wouldn't be on if the magazine had many rivals or were targeted at 'European' women.
On the other hand it's great that black women are finally being seen as beautiful - opposing those stereotypical images of black women as fat maids. Yet on the flip side it reinforces and supports this ever growing vain, shopping crazy society of the West.
A society where women are still controlled by the need to be acceptable to men.
'Black Beauty & Hair' hasn't failed it's duty all together of representing black women in the highest form. The magazine is well put together and fairly prestigious. It's great for black women where the magazine is distributed, in terms of helping with adjustment and identification purposes. The fact that it doesn't take a much stronger political stance is fairly disappointing but the magazine is improving, slowly, with time. Rather like a fine wine it's getting richer with age, so the future may be promising for 'Black Beauty & Hair'. It's already revolutionising the representations of 'blackness', 'black womanhood', and 'black culture' and this is probably the beginning of more to come.
